Crossing Roads in Cairo…
Crossing a road in Cairo is an adventure in itself - a game of chicken where you meet the driver’s eye, take a deep breath, and step forward. My first encounter with this bustling city was just that: crossing a road. The busy, dusty streets, with cars driving in every direction; people of all ages traversing their daily lives in the headlights of oncoming traffic. In many ways, this mirrors a broader theme that defines Cairo and Egypt - a country in the headlights, and at an intersection of roads, paths and journeys: connecting Europe and Africa, history and modernity, tradition and transformation. Egypt has always played a pivotal role in shaping the future of the Arab world.
This November, we were lucky, privileged and honoured to be invited to the 2024 Downtown Contemporary Arts Festival (D-CAF) in Cairo. Now in its 10th year, D-CAF is celebrated for its powerful and poignant programming, spanning theatre, dance, and visual arts. It has become a central platform for artists across the Arab world to showcase their work.
Our role was simple: to share our insights into producing, commissioning, and co-producing work. Over the course of four day long sessions, we did just that - we facilitated two dynamic groups: one with early career Arab world artists (an amazing group under the umbrella Cairo Calling) and another with Saudi Arabian cultural leaders. These sessions were stimulating - filled with thoughtful discussions, shared learning, and meaningful exchanges, reflecting the diverse and vibrant community of creatives we had the privilege to engage with.
“Amplifying Arab voices feels more critical than ever, and this journey reinforced our commitment to supporting and showcasing these vital global perspectives.”
Collaborations and Connections
During our time in Cairo, we were fortunate to collaborate on the delivery of these session with incredible individuals who are shaping the local arts scene. Ezzat Ismail, a dynamic choreographer, dance maker, and curator, brought knowledge, expertise and curiosity to the discussions, while Shaymaa Shoukry, a multidisciplinary artist blending dance, film, and even martial arts, inspired us with her own experiences to making, facilitating and collaborating on dynamic artworks. We also had the privilege of working with the inspirational Alia Alzougbi from Shubbak Festival and reconnecting with the ever-excellent team at Farnham Maltings.
Experiencing D-CAF
Our days were completed through experiencing art. At the centre was this inspirational festival D-CAF programme - and a mix of delegates from the UK, Europe, and beyond, keen to see, witness, share and learn. The works we experienced ranged from performances in theatres and installations in warehouses to VR journeys in old corner shops and intimate dialogues in street cafes. We also heard pitches from some of the Cairo Calling group - early career, arab world artists platforming new work, and seeking support.
Show Highlights
Dressing Room (Bissane Al Charif, Lebanon): A tender, sharp reflection on the wrinkles of women’s bodies and the political fabric of society, woven through the lens of ageing, memory, and time.
Fragments (Oumaima Bahri, Tunisia): A mesmerising exploration of the body as a mechanical and deeply human canvas, oscillating between fury and longing.
I Woke Up a Sweaty Human (Dalia Khalifa, Egypt): A thought-provoking journey into the boundaries between physical and digital selves, tied to themes of sweat, fluidity, and socio-political struggles.
Retro (Ahmed Ghareeb, Lebanon): An audio-visual collage capturing fleeting psychological states, from joy to hysteria, through soundscapes and raw physicality.
I Fell in Love (Osama Helmy, Egypt): An interactive documentary exploring the life and era of Sayyid Darwish through storytelling, music, and nostalgia.
Of All The People In All The World (Stans Cafe, UK): A moving visualisation of human statistics using grains of rice to represent lives and stories, turning abstract data into something deeply personal.
A Morning at the Pyramids
No trip to Cairo would be complete without a visit to the Pyramids. We managed to carve out a morning to explore Giza, where these ancient wonders stand as a breathtaking crossroad of past and present. Yes it's full of touts and hassle. Yes there is a commercial element that takes the magic away a touch. It's the Pyramids - and really, honestly, the experience was awe-inspiring. We skipped the camel rides and claustrophobia of entering the main tomb but soaked in the magnitude of these marvels, which remain as humbling as they are iconic.
A Taste of Egypt
Food in Egypt is an experience of its own. One dish, in particular, was on everyone’s lips from day one: koshari. I’ll admit I was sceptical when I first heard the list of ingredients: rice, pasta, lentils, chickpeas, tomato sauce, fried onions, and a special sauce. Carbs on carbs? Forget my Zoe diet…. It just sounded bizarre.
But koshari is a revelation—a ceremony of flavours brought to life as waiters mix and stir the ingredients right at your table. The special sauce, a perfect balance of spice and chilli, ties it all together in a dish that is as comforting as it is unique. It’s a culinary embodiment of Egypt’s vibrant crossroads.
Reflections
This trip to Cairo was more than an invitation to share knowledge; it was an opportunity to listen, learn, and connect. Amplifying Arab voices feels more critical than ever, and this journey reinforced our commitment to supporting and showcasing these vital global perspectives. As we continue to build bridges across cultures, we look forward to integrating these insights into our future projects. Cairo’s crossroads—its roads, its stories, and its people—will remain a lasting source of inspiration.
